Field note · Laura · Christmas & New Year · Vienna to Zurich

Austria & Switzerland at Christmas

A Christmas tree outside a Vienna café, the facade rising behind it.

Fourteen nights over Christmas and New Year with family, all by train – Vienna to Salzburg to the Tyrol, then over the border into Switzerland.

Vienna first, three nights at König von Ungarn in the old town – small, private, a good bar downstairs. Days of Christmas markets, concerts and cafés. Then Salzburg for two nights at the Bristol, with Christmas dinner at the Sacher – book it.

Innsbruck next, two nights at the Weisses Kreuz in the old town, mountains at the end of every street – though the skiing and hiking take some getting to, since the city sits on the valley floor. A short train up the mountain fixes that: Seefeld, three nights at DAS MAX. A small village built around cross-country skiing, with ice skating, downhill and ski jumps in the surrounding towns, good restaurants everywhere, and everything on foot or by bus. For a group that wants less movement, pick one of Innsbruck or Seefeld rather than both.

Switzerland to finish. Two nights in St Gallen at the Einstein – the lobby bar alone justifies the stop – with a beautiful old town, the famous library, and fondue up in the hills. Make St Gallen or Zurich a single base with day trips if the train days are adding up. Two nights in Zurich at the Adler, and home.

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The album
A frescoed ceiling and chandeliers in a Viennese palace interior.Salzburg through a stone arch at dusk, the old town laid out below.A large wooden chalet on the village street, people out in front of it.A wood-panelled dining room, tables full and windows onto the snow.Low sun through a yellow blind in a panelled room.A covered terrace with sheepskins on the benches, lake and mountains beyond.Snow-loaded firs against a clear sky, a track running between them.Empty benches under a shelter at the top of the lift, peaks on the far side.