Into Rome, a hire car, and the long drive south to the boot heel. Base was a trulli house outside Bari, two cars between the group – which is the point about Puglia: unless you stay inside one of the towns, everything is a 15–20 minute drive. Lecce, Polignano a Mare, Bari and Ostuni are the built-up bases; the rest is rural. A mozzarella tour, an olive oil tasting and tour, slow days along the coast.
Then the train back to Rome and north along the Tuscan coast to Monte Argentario – Torre di Cala Piccola, a small hotel on a cliff over the Mediterranean, sunset views included, rooms a little dated, more European than American in its crowd. No car this time, which was the mistake: the days ran on what could be reached on foot or by bike. That still covered a lot – a hike up through the cliffs into the mountains, the beach club below by golf-cart shuttle, and e-bikes around the entire peninsula.
Il Pellicano is nearby. Go for lunch or a drink even if you're not staying.
