Field note · Laura · March · Zurich, Wengen, Zermatt & St. Moritz

Three Swiss Mountain Towns

Two walkers on a groomed track above Zermatt, the Matterhorn standing at the end of it.

Wengen, Zermatt and St. Moritz in one trip – three very different Swiss mountain towns, connected almost entirely by train.

Into Zurich for two nights, then the train to Wengen. Wengen is small and car-free, on the hillside above the Lauterbrunnen valley, and the views are hard to beat. A short gondola puts you up in the mountains, where you can ski between the surrounding towns and eventually ski back into the village. There is almost no restaurant or bar scene, so you eat at the hotel – but the village itself is picture-perfect.

Three nights in Zermatt next, which is a different animal. Much larger, down in the valley looking up at the Matterhorn, with skiing good enough to take you into Italy and back. Plenty for non-skiers too, and far more restaurants and bars than Wengen has.

Then the Glacier Express to St. Moritz. It takes most of the day and it is a day well spent – the scenery is the point, and the train is an experience in its own right. St. Moritz is my favourite town in Switzerland. It has the glitzy reputation, and it also has excellent downhill and cross-country skiing, hiking, restaurants and bars. It sits above a lake, which makes it feel nothing like Wengen or Zermatt. Two nights there, then back to Zurich.

What I'd change

Nothing went wrong, but this itinerary is a lot of train transfers. If changing trains with luggage is not your idea of a holiday, mix in private transfers. Wengen and Zermatt are car-free either way.

I would add a day in Zurich and get out beyond the Old Town. Zurich also works as a base for Bern, Lucerne or St. Gallen.

And take the Muottas Muragl funicular outside St. Moritz for sunset drinks. The views over the Engadin valley and its lakes are worth timing the day around.

See where it is →

The album
Moored boats on the lake at Zurich, flat water and low cloud on the far shore.A lane in Wengen on 35mm, chalet eaves on both sides and the snow massif filling the gap above.The Lauterbrunnen valley from the hillside above Wengen, cloud breaking up over the far wall.Chalets stacked down the Wengen hillside on film, bare rock and snow behind them.Deep blue sky over the peaks above Zermatt, no cloud anywhere in it.A paraglider coming in over a row of empty deck chairs on the snow.Deck chairs on a terrace above the valley, shot on film.The frozen lake at St. Moritz on film, two figures walking out across it.Lunch tables on the snow at St. Moritz, film grain and low winter sun.Sunset over the Engadin from the Muottas Muragl funicular, light coming through the cloud.